Portugal & Spain ~
Equal Parts Ebb & Flow
These two siblings of southern Europe couldn’t be more different
or more beautifully combined for those who enjoy equal measures of relaxation
and celebration in a single golf vacation. The Portuguese live on easy
street, perfectly pleased to pass the afternoon with a carafe of white
on their cliff top verandahs overlooking the Atlantic after a morning
fourball. Spaniards own the fast lane. Afternoon tee times are prized
because the night life is even more prized. Both are crazy old world,
with much of Portugal
a virtual museum experience while Spain is a blend of Roman ruins and
the newest you-name-it money can buy. Tiny villages dot the coastal
cliffs while elegant resorts and fancy marinas play in their shadows.
The 21st century changes into the 15th by climbing a flight of 450 year
old stone steps. Allow yourself at least 9 nights and you’ll visit
three distinct regions of the Iberian Peninsula including 4-6 rounds
of golf.
Lisbon has honors. Portugal’s capital since
1255 is a city of ancient history and two and a half million Portuguese.
It’s framed by the Tagus River, the Atlantic Ocean and a unique
urban forest park all of which make for a masterpiece readily canvassed
by foot. Lisbon was the most important city in the world 500 years ago
during the Age of Discovery. Now it has golf, along with trendy waterfronts,
elegant hotels, exceptional restaurants and Europe’s largest casino.
The place is also tricked out with two thousand years of architecture,
art, museums, and cathedrals. You’ll day trip to nearby Estoril
Coast for continuous beaches with soft surf – not unlike the South
of France – and a couple rounds selecting from Penha
Longa (Atlantic Course), Oitavos, and Praia
D'El Rey. Robert Trent Jones Jr’s Penha Longa is mandatory.
The mini mountain town of Sintra is magic and easily earns an afternoon
to see how Portuguese royalty made do over the summer in digs like Pena
Palace, said to be “a blend of Gothic, Manueline, and
Romantic influences which make for a very explosive combination.”
Ninety minutes north in Porto, you’ll want a
full day. Tour the country’s legendary wine region, sample it
with lunch in the Palacio do Bolsa, cruise the Douro River between wine
groves and sample it some more. There’s excellent golf too, Estela
Golf Club in particular which is fashioned like a Scottish
links with nothing but white beach separating its fairways from the
Atlantic. If you decide (wisely) to stay the night, or two, the 5-star
Hotel Infante de Sagres is always a pleasure for its
history, city center location, and king size beds!
After Lisbon, take it down a notch to the Algarve
– 2 hours south through central Portugal’s rolling farm
country if you don’t stop; 4 hours when you do to visit Sir Cliff
Richard’s wine cellar. Then, welcome to Easy Street. The Algarve
is one of Europe’s preferred holiday
destinations known for glorious, year round sunshine, smooth wide beaches
shadowed by towering rock cliffs, and the game of golf. Joe Lee’s
wonderful San Lorenzo leads the parade with Vale
do Lobo (Royal) following closely plus Quinta do Lago
(South), Vilamoura Old by British designer Frank Pennick,
and Palmer’s impressive new Victoria Club opened
in 2004. Five star accommodation is equally available, notably Vilamoura’s
Vila Sol Spa & Golf Resort which recently opened
its new hotel, now a member of The Leading Hotels of the World,
along with a third nine by Donald Steel. The resort is also your ticket
to one of the most beautiful, sophisticated and sought-after of Portuguese
beaches – the famous Vila Sol Beach Club –
located within the Ria Formosa Natural Park at Ancão. New to
the neighborhood, with 5 stars and just 12 guestrooms, is Quinta
Jacinta for those who prefer their privacy.

Out and about you’ll be delighted with Faro, the region’s
energetic capital, where international retailers abound beside the handicraft
shops of family merchants and cafes serving the day’s catch with
wonderful wines you’ve never experienced. Western Algarve offers
the City of Silves which came into its own as the region’s
capital during
the 11th century. Rising way above the town are the red walls of Silves
Castle where high ground views of the town and countryside
are enjoyed from massive ramparts and the Cathedral which dates back
to the 13th century.
Now the stage is set for Spain, a leisurely and lovely 4-5 hour ride
away traveling excellent roadways
through the beautiful countryside of her Andalucia region. Near
the Spanish border you’ll encounter picturesque Tavira
with remarkable examples of Roman architecture like the seven-arch Roman
bridge. On to Sevilla, Andalucia’s capital city
and birthplace of Flamenco dancing, you’ll want to tour the Golden
Tower on the banks of the River Guadalquiver, plus the country's
oldest cathedral which is home to Christopher Columbus' tomb, and the
amazing Plaza Espanha to see tile pictures from every
province in Spain. The many tapas bars make for a lively, progressive-style
lunch as you sip sherry and eat a small dish in one before moving on
to the next.
Finally, you are on final approach to Spain’s famous Costa
del Sol, whose constant sunshine and light air have produced
an adult playground encompassing roughly 95 miles of trendy beaches,
celebrity marinas, casinos, enough luxury resorts for ten visits, and,
more than 80 golf courses. The action is found from Sotogrande to Malaga.
Beginning with the golf, Sotogrande Old is the local
grandfather designed by Robert Trent Jones, opened in 1964, and a fixture
among the continental top ten. The Old Course at San Roque
is a frequent host to the European Tour. Next door is mighty Valderrama,
host to numerous European and international events including the 1997
Ryder Cup. Each of these layouts is set in the secluded foothills of
the Sierra Bermeja mountains offering magnificent views of the Mediterranean,
generous greens and fast running fairways frequently framed by cork
oaks. It is impressive to note that concerted efforts are taken by the
clubs to preserve natural habitat, earning for Valderrama, designation
as a Certified Audubon Cooperative Sanctuary.
Moving east toward Malaga is the luxurious coastal resort town of Marbella
which lays claim to 26 km of sun bathed beach, a steady stream of the
rich and famous, and a yachtload of good golf. Premier
among your choices is the Marbella Club, another fine
design by Dave Thomas accented by striking views of Gibraltar, the Mediterranean
and the African coastline. Accommodation of choice in the area is Hotel
Puente Romano, a condominium community turned 5-star hotel
in 1979, offering oversized guestrooms and baths, sitting areas, kitchens
and each a private terrace. Its every comfort of home, made all the
more
remarkable by 120,000 square feet of subtropical gardens that
surround the property with streams, ponds, waterfalls and over 400 different
species of plants and flowers. Just minutes from this paradise is Puerto
Banus, Mediterranean marina to celebrity, royalty and plain old ordinary,
extraordinary wealth. Designer fashion boutiques and open air restaurants
line quaint streets; the night reaches dawn at discotheques, alfresco
bars and piano clubs. It’s a sight to see, through a pair of tortoise
pattern Gucci shades…of course.
Spring and fall are the best times to visit coastal Portugal and
Spain, since the summer months can warm up particularly on the Costa
del Sol.
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