EAST LOTHIAN - CRADLE OF SCOTTISH GOLF HISTORY

Landing in Edinburgh the majority of golfers turn north to the recognized 'Home of Golf', St. Andrews. But in East Lothian, just south and east of the capital city, lie some of the most historic and challenging courses to be found anywhere in Scotland -- Muirfield, North Berwick, Gullane, Kilspindie, Dunbar, Luffness, Longniddry, Musselburgh, Royal Musselburgh and newcomers Whitekirk and Craigelaw.

The land in East Lothian is ideally suited for linksland golf, there are a scant number of trees, firm sand-based turf, and the main hazards are natural rather than the modern man-made versions. Golf here is a 'feel' game, yardages a mere guide, not to be relied upon as one battles to keep the ball under the breezes and holding the greens.

Just out of the city one comes to Musselburgh GC, nine holes located in the middle of a horse race track, not much by modern standards, but one of the most important courses in Scottish golf history. It was here that The Honorable Company of Edinburgh Golfers moved after leaving the 'links at Leith' in the 1830's, before founding Muirfield GC. Musselburgh was on the original Open rota, sharing hosting duties of the Championship with St. Andrews and Prestwick, six times between 1874 and 1889, when caddies and club makers ruled the links. Those who hosted the Claret Jug at Musselburgh are still familiar to students of the game today -- Mungo Park, Jamie Anderson and Willie Park, Jr. Besides providing the golfing world with some of the greatest players, teachers and club makers, it was at Musselburgh the first standard tool was made, in 1829, to cut holes to a uniform 4 1/4" and also where, because of paved roads in 1888, medal plates were fastened to 'brassies' to hit off the unnatural surface.

Some form of Golf was probably played over the links at Musselburgh since 1672. The earliest recorded competition there was in 1774, the same year The Honourable Company is credited with being founded, by the Thorntree Club who played for the "Old Club Cup.' Other historic clubs which shared the links at Musselburgh were the Royal Musselburgh Golf Club, The Royal Burgess Golfers and the Bruntsfield Golfing Society, before they founded their own separate clubs.

Next door is Royal Musselburgh GC, a beautiful parkland James Braid par 70, 6237 yard layout which opened in 1926. This is the modern home of what was the Thorntree Club, one of the clubs that shared the course at Musselburgh, that was originally founded in 1774.

Continuing down the coast one comes across Longniddry, Luffness New and Kilspindie. All excellent, challenging and unique layouts in their own right, that have been overshadowed by their more famous neighbors -- Muirfield, North Berwick, Gullane and Dunbar. Harry Colt designed Longniddry in 1921 as part parkland, part links, and all the holes from this par 70, 6219 yard layout have views of the sea. New, as with the 'New' Course at St. Andrews is a relative term in Scottish golf, and Luffness New is no exception. It was originally laid out by Tom Morris in 1894 incorporating the original nine holes of Luffness 'Old' dating back to 1867. Although a par 69 and only 6122 yards, it will challenge and confound even the lowest handicaps. Kilspindie, located right on the sea, is the shortest of the three, a par 66 at only 5471 yards. Originally laid out in 1867 by Ross & Sayers, it was extended by Willie Park. Any golf itinerary which incorporates some of the lesser known historic courses will enrich the overall experience and appreciation of the game.

A newcomer to the area is Craigelaw, by veteran architect Donald Steel, which has some great holes, particularly the challenging par 3's. Keeping with the historic theme of the entire area, Steel has incorporated some old stone dykes into the design as the course meanders along the coast. The quality of the putting surfaces are especially impressive for a young links course. The clubhouse, which in time will offer overnight accommodations in a renovated farmhouse, is scheduled to open in May 2002.

As you drive into Gullane, you can't miss the golf courses, the road goes in between the courses and the famous hill at Gullane is an obvious feature. There are three courses at Gullane GC, with Gullane Number One being the most renown and challenging. The panoramic view from the 7th hole is one of the most spectacularly scenic in all of golf. And the tee shot on the downhill hole inspires one to really let one rip, but here, as on the downhill 17th, you may want to temper your backswing as errant balls that drift into the rough will result in dropped shots, regardless of the distance hit.

Golf has happily co-existed on this land for over 300 years with the natural inhabitants, and today the three courses share the land with a bird sanctuary. Gullane Number One (6466 yards, par 71) was formally founded in 1882, Number Two (6244 yards, par 71) in 1898 and Number Three (5252 yards, par 68) in 1910. Visitors will find the rich golfing history of the area and the game itself vividly portrayed in a small museum at Gullane, lovingly run by Archie Baird, himself a golf institution in Scotland.

Still in Gullane, and visible from atop Gullane's hill, is the most famous of the East Lothian courses -- Muirfield, home to the Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers. The history of the club and their current home is detailed in the Classic Courses section of the Advisor.

Next we come to the Advisor's personal favorite, North Berwick West Links. Located directly along the sea under the watchful eye of The Marine Hotel, this Mackenzie Ross gem has stolen the heart of many golfers. While big brother next door, Muirfield, grabs the headlines, North Berwick is where many golfers prefer to actually play their golf. It is charming. It is quirky. It never fails to delight and frustrate in the same round. Those who prefer their lies level and clear paths to the pin, may not enjoy their round here. It takes shotmaking and imagination to conquer the ingenious layout. While the club was formally founded in 1832, golf in some form had been played along the linksland for centuries previously. It's setting is a cross between St Andrews, Old, where the course finishes in town, and Turnberry, with Bass Rock just offshore, reminiscent of a miniature Ailsa Craig. There the similarities end.

The West Links is most famous for its 'Redan' par three 15th hole, one of the most copied in all of golf, and the stone wall which guards the green on the 13th 'Pit'. The aptly named 14th 'Perfection,' requires it, as it is a blind shot to a green perched on the edge of the course with a straight drop to the sea awaiting misjudged approaches. The straight 16th, which runs right in front of The Marine Hotel, features a green with a confounding contour (i.e., a deep gully, you could lose a car in), should you find yourself on the wrong side. No 17, against the wind, will test your best shot making ability to reach and hold the elevated green before the rather benign 18th, reminiscent of the closing hole on the Old Course, offers a chance to redeem a shot upon finishing as it is drivable with a tailing wind.

North Berwick also has an East Links or the 'Glen' course offering excellent views of Bass Rock and the Kingdom of Fife across the Firth of Forth. The original nine holes of this course were laid out in 1894 by James Braid and Ben Sayers with the additional nine being added in 1906. The course plays from sea level to atop a 75-foot high marine fossil cliff and back down again.

Just inland between North Berwick and Dunbar is another new course, Whitekirk, with magnificent views over the Firth of Forth. The facility is quickly building a reputation as a fine test of golf and the clubhouse enjoys a loyal local clientele as well as famished golfers.

The final stop in East Lothian is Dunbar, where evidence of 'gouff' dates back over 350 years. In 1616 the Kirk Session censured two men for 'playing at ye nyne holis' on the Sabbath and in 1640 it proved disgraceful for an Assistant Minister of Dunbar to be seen 'playing at Gouff.' Records indicate that the Dunbar Golfing Society dates back at least to 1794. Fifteen holes of today's Dunbar East Links were laid out by Old Tom Morris in 1856 after a meeting in the Town Hall approved the formation of the club, with the additional three holes being added in the 1880's. The lesser known West Links were established in 1937 at Winterfield, as the name suggests on the west side on town.

At 6426 yards, this par 71 design, like many Scottish courses, seems deceivably short. The natural links stretches down a long ribbon of land, closely following the coastline and bounded down the entire length of the course by a stone wall. Unlike many Scottish courses there is 'out of bounds' on 10 holes and the beach can come into play on nine holes. If the wind is blowing, the ability to hit it straight and keep it low is critical to scoring well and finding your ball. It has played host to The Scottish Amateur, Scottish Boys and Scottish Professional Championships.

Fortunately for today's golfer the original edict of the Dunbar Golfing Society did not carry through, it read that, "When the expense of each member for dinner amounts to two shillings and sixpence, the club shall be dissolved."

So the next time you find yourself in Edinburgh, turn south and discover another chapter of Scottish and the game's incredible complex history.